THE INDOMITABLE Bill Viall of Providence recently led me and our sons up Mount Lafayette, in the Franconia Range of New Hampshire. Along the way I dawdled along, botanizing and birding and generally making a pest of myself in Bill's fast-moving party. A thunderstorm caught us near tree line on the Old Bridle Path so we sprinted to the Appalachian Mountain Club's Greenleaf Hut to dry off and regroup. As I came sloshing in the door, I said excitedly, "Bill, I just saw some alpine flowers.
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